Brunswick Street and Gertrude Street get all the press. The actual Fitzroy — the one residents live in — is mostly on the quiet streets in between. Here’s what’s worth finding.
The Back-Street Walks
Napier Street, between Johnston and Gertrude. The quietest residential street in Fitzroy. Double-fronted Victorian terraces, iron lacework, established gardens. No shops, no bars, no traffic. Walk it at 8am on a weekday and you’ll hear birds, not trams. It’s the street that reminds you Fitzroy was a village before it was a destination.
Gore Street. Runs parallel to Napier. Workers’ cottages with tiny front gardens that residents compete to maintain. The bluestone laneways off Gore Street have some of the suburb’s best small-scale street art — paste-ups and stencils that change monthly.
Kerr Street. Connects Brunswick Street to George Street behind the main strip. The back walls of the Brunswick Street shops are an open-air gallery: murals, paste-ups, and wheat-paste posters. Most visitors walk past the Kerr Street entrance without noticing it. The laneway between Kerr and Leicester Street has a rotating collection of political stencils and hand-painted murals that’s been going since the early 2000s.
Food Off the Radar
Fitzroy Coffee — 241 Gertrude Street. The cheapest good espresso in the suburb at $3.80. A bench, a window, and coffee that’s better than places charging $2 more. No Wi-Fi, no brunch menu, no Instagram. Just coffee.
The kebab shops on Johnston Street east of Brunswick. Between Brunswick Street and Nicholson Street, Johnston Street has a cluster of Turkish and Middle Eastern takeaways that most Fitzroy visitors never reach. A lamb doner with the lot runs $12–$14 and will feed you until tomorrow.
Alimentari’s back fridge — 255 Brunswick Street. Everyone knows the Italian subs ($14), but the back fridge has house-made fresh pasta ($8–$10 per serve), olives marinated in-house, and Italian cheeses at prices that undercut the CBD delis. Buy supplies here and cook at home — it’s better value than eating out.
The Vietnamese bakeries on Victoria Parade. Just south of Fitzroy proper, the bakeries along Victoria Parade (towards East Melbourne) do banh mi for $7–$9 that are as good as the $12 versions on Brunswick Street. Thy Thy (142 Victoria Street, Richmond — slightly further but worth the walk) is the benchmark.
The Parks Nobody Talks About
Atherton Gardens Reserve. The small park wedged between the Atherton Gardens housing towers on Brunswick Street. It has a basketball court, a playground, and mature shade trees. It’s not pretty in the conventional sense, but it’s the most honestly Fitzroy space in the suburb — public housing residents, families, and dog walkers sharing a green space that’s been here since the 1960s.
The Edinburgh Gardens bowling club corner. The north-east corner of Edinburgh Gardens, near the Fitzroy-North Fitzroy border, has a bowls club with a public green. On weekday afternoons this corner is quiet, gets late sun, and has a view across the oval. Bring a book.
The Royal Exhibition Building from Carlton Gardens’ south lawn. Technically Carlton, but a 10-minute walk from central Fitzroy. The south-facing lawn in front of the Exhibition Building is one of Melbourne’s best picnic spots — huge elms, fountain, and the heritage building as backdrop. Most people walk through; sitting here for an hour is better.
Shops Worth Finding
Polyester Records — 387 Brunswick Street. Vinyl specialists. New releases, secondhand crates, and staff who will talk for 30 minutes about a record you’ve never heard of. One of Melbourne’s last proper record shops.
The Spanish Deli — 265 Johnston Street. Imported Spanish goods — tinned seafood, chorizo, manchego, Marcona almonds. The kind of shop that doesn’t exist in shopping centres. Run by a family who source directly from Spain.
Smith Street Bazaar — 298 Smith Street. Secondhand and vintage clothing, furniture, and oddities across two levels. The kind of place where you go in for a browse and come out with a 1970s lamp you didn’t know you needed.
The View
Stand on the Brunswick Street overpass above Alexandra Parade, facing south. On a clear evening, you get the CBD skyline backlit by sunset, with the Fitzroy rooftops in the foreground. It’s not iconic Melbourne — it’s better. It’s the view that residents see and visitors don’t.
More from Fitzroy: Neighbourhood Guide · History · Things to Do
Written by locals, March 2026.
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