Most visitors to the St Kilda area never enter St Kilda East. They stay on Acland Street or the foreshore. The suburb rewards the people who wander one block further.
The Back-Street Walks
Blessington Street, between Hotham and Chapel. The quietest residential street in St Kilda East. Edwardian weatherboards, established gardens, and on a weekday morning the only sound is a magpie. This is the street that explains why people pay inner-city prices for a suburb with no nightlife — the peace is genuine.
Crimea Street. Runs parallel to Alma Road. Workers’ cottages with tiny front gardens that residents maintain with genuine pride. The bluestone laneways connecting through to Hotham Street have a village feel that disappeared from most inner suburbs years ago.
Food Off the Radar
Glick’s Bagels back counter — 330 Carlisle Street. Everyone knows the bagels. Fewer people know about the rugelach ($3.50 each) in the back display case, or the babka that sells out by 10am on Saturdays. Arrive early or miss out.
The kosher delis on Hotham Street. Between Inkerman and Alma Road, Hotham Street has a cluster of kosher butchers and delis that most Melburnians outside the Jewish community don’t know about. Smoked fish, house-made pickles, and challah that smells like Friday evening. Buy supplies here and cook at home — it’s better value than eating out.
Jerusalem Grill — Hotham Street. The fit-out suggests a basic takeaway. The lamb shawarma ($18) suggests otherwise. The kind of place where you judge by the queue at 1pm, not the signage.
The Parks Nobody Talks About
Alma Park. The suburb’s biggest green space, and on weekday mornings it’s practically empty. Mature elms, a proper playground, and a walking loop that takes about 15 minutes at a comfortable pace. The north-east corner gets late-afternoon sun and is the best reading spot in the suburb.
The Balaclava Road reserve. A narrow strip of green between the road and the rail line. Not beautiful in a conventional sense, but dog walkers use it at 7am, and the morning light through the trees is worth seeing.
Shops Worth Finding
Izzy’s Bakery — Carlisle Street. The strudel ($7) and poppy seed cake ($8) come from recipes that haven’t changed since the shop opened. Staff will tell you the story if you ask. One of Melbourne’s last European-style bakeries that isn’t performing the concept for tourists.
The Russian deli — Carlisle Street. Imported goods from Eastern Europe — tinned fish, smoked meats, fermented vegetables, chocolate you won’t find at Woolworths. Run by people who source directly and sell to a community that knows what to do with every item.
The View
Stand at the intersection of Alma Road and Hotham Street on a Friday afternoon in autumn. The light comes through the plane trees, families walk to synagogue, the delis are busy with weekend prep. It’s not iconic Melbourne. It’s better — it’s the Melbourne that actually lives here.
More from St Kilda East: Neighbourhood Guide · History · Things to Do
Written by locals, March 2026.
Explore More of St Kilda East
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